I first heard of Varanasi from a co-volunteer during my first week in India. He said that it is a must for him to visit Varanasi, the Hindus’ holy city. Varanasi is said to be the place where Hindus’ would like to die in, if they get the chance. I was told that it is believed that dying in Varanasi or having their remains sunk below or their ashes scattered across the Ganges River will either stop their reincarnation (maybe especially when they expect to rep bad karma in their next life) and/or go straight to heaven. Another reason for Hindu pilgrimage in Varanasi is the belief that you can be cleansed of your sins and cured of your illness once you drink from or bathe at the Ganges River.
After kilometers of biking, marveling and picture-taking (aka camwhoring) in and around the Angkor Wat Archaeological Complex in Siem Reap, you’d end up really hungry and I would personally recommend for you to satisfy that hunger for Khmer food at Stall No. 29.
Fish Amok (curry) served in a coconut shell
It was Julian, the Spaniard-but-based-in-Ireland-whom-I’ve-met-in-Phuket (whew!), who told me about the place. Since he arrived at Siem Reap and Angkor Wat complex a day before I did, he had the chance to try the place out.
Food stall area
He said that apart from Stall No. 29, he tried another place too. But he chose for us to come back to Stall No. 29 not just because the Khmer food was better but also because the people are nicer!
Stall No. 29, located inside the Angkor Wat Archaeological Complex in the stall area near the Terrace of the Leper King, Terrace of the Elephants and Prasat Suor Prat, is a family-run food stall (restaurant). Granma runs the kitchen, Mommy serves the food, and the daughter takes care of customer relations. (I’m really sorry that I have now forgotten her name)
I think this is the Terrace of Elephants. Go further down the road to the right to find the stalls
Don’t get me wrong. I mean, I am not recommending the place just because the people are nicer but it’s because the Khmer food they serve is really yummy. And the price, in thousands of Khmer riel (I think USD1=KHR4000 at the time) seems reasonable at 20-30000 for a dish, and looks like the same range of prices anywhere else.
simple-but-complex clear vegetable soup (mainly young bok choy, sweet potato, carrots and lettuce)
Well, it’s quite expensive in a sense that it’s a roadside stall and in that price, you can get a full meal with drinks and dessert in some restaurants/restobars here in the Philippines. But hey, this was real deal Cambodian food and Khmer goodness while marveling at temple ruins. Seriously, that ought to cover it. And, did I mention that the food was really good?!
I forgot what it is exactly but I think this is chicken in lemon grass curry
Khmer food are usually curry-based, with a lot of coconut powder and lemon grass. During my stay in Cambodia, I’ve had several Khmer food and none of them matched the goodness I’ve tasted with the food from Stall No. 29.
Chicken Curry (coconut-based)
Not even the dinner buffet at the Apsara dance performance or the free food at the Bousavvy Guesthouse where we stayed. There’s a certain way about Grandma’s fish amok (curry), served in a coconut shell no less, that when I tried to order another fish curry at Phnom Penh, I wished I hadn’t.
Fish soup (lemon grass mode!)
Grandma’s version was smooth, rich and flavorful. I know I probably sound like a TV show host selling food via home channel right now but really, that’s what it tasted like to me. Whether it was a spicier chicken curry (not as hot as Indian curry of course) or a simple-but-complex clear vegetable soup, Grandma knows how to tickle one’s taste buds and leave you wanting for more.
Simot sarap goodness (nothing but the bowl left!) with Angkor beer
Whenever we taste Cambodian food goodness at Stall No. 29, Julian and I would always leave full and satisfied. Plus, during the meal, we get entertained by the daughter’s stories about Cambodian culture. At the time, especially when I was on my last day at the Angkor Wat complex, we mostly talked about marriage and married life. I saw a wedding photo shoot and she was already thinking of marrying her boyfriend. The way she shared her stories made me experience it too, perhaps more than I should. Hehe
Shopping at Stall No. 25. They are friends with Stall No. 29 and help each other out
Another reason why I am recommending Stall No. 29 is because I believe in their genuineness. Of course, it is a business. But, it is a business which they run with sincerity and willingness to share. Stall No. 29 also reminds me that there really is good in a person, even when we are with strangers. On my last day and Khmer meal at Stall No. 29, I accidentally got my left leg burnt by a motorbike’s exhaust. After learning about this, the daughter disappeared and came back with a new tube of Colgate, bought especially to be applied to the burnt skin to soothe the heated pain. I was, of course, touched deeply and was at lost for words.
Stall No. 29 and The Family
So yeah, when I said Khmer goodness at Stall No. 29, I didn’t just mean Cambodian food. There’s a different kind of Khmer goodness that Stall No. 29 and the family have shared with me and Julian. If in case you are heading in Angkor Wat complex and heading to Stall No. 29 to taste and experience Khmer goodness, enjoy the food and I’d appreciate if you can give the family my regards.
I spent the third day of the new year being awed and mesmerized (not to mention frozen) by the Golden Temple in Amritsar. While Amritsar is not the state capital, hundreds of thousands, possibly hundreds of millions, visit this city at India’s northwestern frontier as it is home to the Harmandir Sahib aka Golden Temple. The Harmandir Sahib is considered “heaven” among the Sikhs, followers of Sikhism. (most of us [especially Pinoy] know them as the people with the turban)
A devout Sikh dips into the sarovar (holy pool) even when it’s about 5 degrees cold
I first came to know of the Golden Temple via an article written by Mamu Rose, a Filipina co-volunteer, who toured the Sikh’s Holy City together with other VSO volunteers. Upon gazing at the picture, I told myself that I, too, shall see the Golden Temple for myself.
The Golden Temple is located in the middle of the holy pool
It took months before I was finally able to go but I was so glad that I did. Being at Harimandir Sahib, even though I was not a Sikh or a follower of Sikhism (though I like their teachings, the ones I heard of at least), gave me a certain feeling of calm and peace. The Golden Temple, unlike any other places I visited, I felt these even while I was just about to enter the complex premises.
One of the entrances, by the Langer (free kitchen). Covered heads and washed feet are required before entry
I don’t know but for some reason, I felt like I am really being welcomed. That I am being, uhm, ushered in. Alright, alright. You can say I am being dramatic. But that was really what I felt at the time. And mind you, I haven’t actually gone in the Golden Temple itself yet.
A bridge connects the pilgrims and visitors from the walkway area to the Harimandir Sahib
It probably was because of the long line of devotees and “curious” tourists waiting to get their chance to enter the Sikh “heaven” (although I think the entire complex kinda feels like that already) but also, more importantly, because I wanted to understand the essence of the Harimandir Sahib better.
Can you see the line just to enter the Golden Temple?
And that moment came later that night when my CouchSurfing kind-of host Sokirt met me at the Harmandir Sahib after the trip to the Wagah (Indo-Pakistan) border. Sokirt is a Sikh, and, I should say, probably as devout as my grand aunt were in the congregation.
The Golden Temple and the lights are reflected by the sarovar during the day and night
How did I say so? Well, when we entered the Golden Temple complex, the first words out of Sokirt’s mouth, was “This is heaven.” And, though I may not share the same views as strongly as he does when it comes to religion, I gotta say, I was sold. I mean, you could hear it in his voice. There was so much faith and belief.
Pilgrims and visitors are highly encouraged to revel at the Golden Temple’s majesty during the day and the night
I haven’t met anyone like Sokirt who had that much reverence and awe for his place of worship. Or for the idea of having “heaven on earth”. Not even my late grand aunt. I probably would not convert to Sikhism but really, meeting a Sikh in their holy site and seeing and feeling how much they believe in the teachings of Sikhism, man, that is something that gets through you.
The Harimandir Sahib glows and radiates throughout the night
When asked about my favorite places or moments in India, the Golden Temple in Amritsar is definitely always mentioned. Not just because of the beauty of the Harimandir Sahib itself (which was built thrice already after being destroyed due to religious and political conflicts) but of what the temple and the surrounding structures represent. Of course, it might be different for you and me. But if you have the chance, I hope you’d get to visit the Golden Temple and see and feel for yourself how the Sikh’s “heaven” can be a refuge for you as well.
Sokirt said I was a brave girl for coming to Amritsar during winter. Well, at 5 degrees, I guess my 8-layered get-up can cope. 🙂
For general travel information on how to get to Amritsar and visit the Harimandir Sahib, please refer to Wikitravel. If you want to learn more about my experience at the Golden Temple and the other places in Amritsar (Langer [free kitchen], Wagah Border, Jalianwallah Bagh), please be patient for the rest of the entries or leave me a comment.
Before the Holy Week, I headed up north to Sagada with CouchSurfers and newfound friends to go spelunking in the Cave Connection, Bomod-ok falls trekking and swimming, and hanging coffins hunting.
The Viahera Vlog feature I’m including here is the one for the Bomod-ok Falls trek we did on our Day 2 in Sagada. There are 11 of us, 5 CouchSurfers, 5 jeepmates, and Larry the tourist, from the topload ride from Banaue to Sagada.
Total time for the Bomod-ok Falls trek is supposedly at 1-hour descending and 1-hour ascending. The thing is, with a group of 11 picture crazy people, I’d say that 3 hours would be a good estimate. Hihihi
Oh well. We still got there anyway. And enjoyed the Bomod-ok falls in its full glory. I even checked something off my bucket list once we were already in Bomod-ok—to jump off a cliff! Ok, I know it’s not really a “cliff” in open waters or something but hey, it’s still high! The 8-minute video of climbing to the jump-off point and taking the plunge into the waterfalls’ freezing pool is not included in this video playlist coz it deserves another entry! Seriously, buwis buhay (daredevil) mode!
For now, enjoy the Viahera Vlogs I took during our trek and I hope that one day, you’ll get to trek through the beautiful Sagada rice terraces and experience the thrill and chill of Bomod-ok Falls.
After the spelunking, trekking and daredevil waterfalls jumping in Sagada, I found myself awed with the sunset and surfing scene in San Juan, La Union.
I love sunsets. Really. And the one in San Juan is made even better with the surfers and surfboards lining up the horizon!
And, beginner or pro, the beach and the waves in San Juan offer spots for surfers. The beginner surfer’s area is where most of the surfing action happens. There’s a place on the right side of the beach that is for the pros and for the surfing instructors who wish to just chill and play with the waves.
So, if you’re someone who just wants to chill and surf at the same time, you should probably head out here in San Juan. I’m still at the Circle Hostel and if you find me, I’ll buy you a beer and we can just chill by the beach after surfing and watch the wonderful sunset of San Juan.
Life is short so take a leap of faith. Let’s wander, explore and discover. Come and journey with me.
for the rest of the entries or leave me a comment.
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The Diarist Wanders 