Category Archives: Provinces

Entering the Sikh’s Heaven (Golden Temple, Amritsar, Punjab)

I spent the third day of the new year being awed and mesmerized (not to mention frozen) by the Golden Temple in Amritsar. While Amritsar is not the state capital, hundreds of thousands, possibly hundreds of millions, visit this city at India’s northwestern frontier as it is home to the Harmandir Sahib aka Golden Temple. The Harmandir Sahib is considered “heaven” among the Sikhs, followers of Sikhism. (most of us [especially Pinoy] know them as the people with the turban)

Amritsar - Golden Temple Dip
A devout Sikh dips into the sarovar (holy pool) even when it’s about 5 degrees cold

I first came to know of the Golden Temple via an article written by Mamu Rose, a Filipina co-volunteer, who toured the Sikh’s Holy City together with other VSO volunteers. Upon gazing at the picture, I told myself that I, too, shall see the Golden Temple for myself.

Amritsar - Golden Temple Panorama
The Golden Temple is located in the middle of the holy pool

It took months before I was finally able to go but I was so glad that I did. Being at Harimandir Sahib, even though I was not a Sikh or a follower of Sikhism (though I like their teachings, the ones I heard of at least), gave me a certain feeling of calm and peace. The Golden Temple, unlike any other places I visited, I felt these even while I was just about to enter the complex premises.

Amritsar - Golden Temple Entrance
One of the entrances, by the Langer (free kitchen). Covered heads and washed feet are required before entry

I don’t know but for some reason, I felt like I am really being welcomed. That I am being, uhm, ushered in. Alright, alright. You can say I am being dramatic. But that was really what I felt at the time. And mind you, I haven’t actually gone in the Golden Temple itself yet.

Amritsar - Golden Temple Bridge
A bridge connects the pilgrims and visitors from the walkway area to the Harimandir Sahib

It probably was because of the long line of devotees and “curious” tourists waiting to get their chance to enter the Sikh “heaven” (although I think the entire complex kinda feels like that already) but also, more importantly, because I wanted to understand the essence of the Harimandir Sahib better.

Amritsar - Golden Temple Bridge Entrance
Can you see the line just to enter the Golden Temple?

And that moment came later that night when my CouchSurfing kind-of host Sokirt met me at the Harmandir Sahib after the trip to the Wagah (Indo-Pakistan) border. Sokirt is a Sikh, and, I should say, probably as devout as my grand aunt were in the congregation.

Amritsar - Golden Temple Right
The Golden Temple and the lights are reflected by the sarovar during the day and night

How did I say so? Well, when we entered the Golden Temple complex, the first words out of Sokirt’s mouth, was “This is heaven.” And, though I may not share the same views as strongly as he does when it comes to religion, I gotta say, I was sold. I mean, you could hear it in his voice. There was so much faith and belief.

Amritsar - Golden Temple Center
Pilgrims and visitors are highly encouraged to revel at the Golden Temple’s majesty during the day and the night

I haven’t met anyone like Sokirt who had that much reverence and awe for his place of worship. Or for the idea of having “heaven on earth”. Not even my late grand aunt. I probably would not convert to Sikhism but really, meeting a Sikh in their holy site and seeing and feeling how much they believe in the teachings of Sikhism, man, that is something that gets through you.

Amritsar - Golden Temple Night Close Up
The Harimandir Sahib glows and radiates throughout the night

When asked about my favorite places or moments in India, the Golden Temple in Amritsar is definitely always mentioned. Not just because of the beauty of the Harimandir Sahib itself (which was built thrice already after being destroyed due to religious and political conflicts) but of what the temple and the surrounding structures represent. Of course, it might be different for you and me. But if you have the chance, I hope you’d get to visit the Golden Temple and see and feel for yourself how the Sikh’s “heaven” can be a refuge for you as well.

Amritsar - Golden Temple Souvenir Photo
Sokirt said I was a brave girl for coming to Amritsar during winter. Well, at 5 degrees, I guess my 8-layered get-up can cope. 🙂

For general travel information on how to get to Amritsar and visit the Harimandir Sahib, please refer to Wikitravel. If you want to learn more about my experience at the Golden Temple and the other places in Amritsar (Langer [free kitchen], Wagah Border, Jalianwallah Bagh), please be patient Smile for the rest of the entries or leave me a comment.

Viahera Vlogs: The Bomod-ok Falls Trek in Sagada

Before the Holy Week, I headed up north to Sagada with CouchSurfers and newfound friends to go spelunking in the Cave Connection, Bomod-ok falls trekking and swimming, and hanging coffins hunting.

The Viahera Vlog feature I’m including here is the one for the Bomod-ok Falls trek we did on our Day 2 in Sagada. There are 11 of us, 5 CouchSurfers, 5 jeepmates, and Larry the tourist, from the topload ride from Banaue to Sagada.

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Total time for the Bomod-ok Falls trek is supposedly at 1-hour descending and 1-hour ascending. The thing is, with a group of 11 picture crazy people, I’d say that 3 hours would be a good estimate. Hihihi

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Oh well. We still got there anyway. And enjoyed the Bomod-ok falls in its full glory. I even checked something off my bucket list once we were already in Bomod-ok—to jump off a cliff! Ok, I know it’s not really a “cliff” in open waters or something but hey, it’s still high! The 8-minute video of climbing to the jump-off point and taking the plunge into the waterfalls’ freezing pool is not included in this video playlist coz it deserves another entry! Seriously, buwis buhay (daredevil) mode!

For now, enjoy the Viahera Vlogs I took during our trek and I hope that one day, you’ll get to trek through the beautiful Sagada rice terraces and experience the thrill and chill of Bomod-ok Falls.

Surfing and Sunsets in San Juan, La Union

After the spelunking, trekking and daredevil waterfalls jumping in Sagada, I found myself awed with the sunset and surfing scene in San Juan, La Union.

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I love sunsets. Really. And the one in San Juan is made even better with the surfers and surfboards lining up the horizon!

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And, beginner or pro, the beach and the waves in San Juan offer spots for surfers. The beginner surfer’s area is where most of the surfing action happens. There’s a place on the right side of the beach that is for the pros and for the surfing instructors who wish to just chill and play with the waves.

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So, if you’re someone who just wants to chill and surf at the same time, you should probably head out here in San Juan. I’m still at the Circle Hostel and if you find me, I’ll buy you a beer and we can just chill by the beach after surfing and watch the wonderful sunset of San Juan.
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Banaue Rice Terraces: 1000 peso bill edition

If you had an old 1000 peso bill right now and take a look at the back of the bill, you’ll see the Banaue Rice Terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Philippines’ greatest treasures.

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Or, if you’re feeling like that’s not enough, then I suggest for you to see the Banaue Rice Terraces yourself!

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Yeah, it takes a butt-numbing 10-hour bus journey. So what?! They say that things you worked hard for gives you the greatest rewards. Believe me, seeing the Banaue Rice Terraces before your very eyes is all worth it!

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Foodie Fridays: Capiz, Seafood Capital of the Philippines

I love eating and it’s my favorite part of work-related travel. You get to savor sumptuous and delicious dishes like fresh vegetables and oh-so-fresh-it’s-still-moving seafood! So, whenever we go on the field, we make sure to always sample the local specialties of the place and when we were in Capiz, it’s always seafood that we craved for!

Capiz - Seafood Capital - Dampa Choices
Are you hungry?!

You can find almost any seafood in Capiz. For how else can Capiz own the bragging rights of being the seafood capital of the Philippines?! From fish to oysters, squids to clams, shrimps to seaweeds, crabs to lobsters.

Capiz - Seafood Capital - Crabs
Craaaaabs! (ginisa or boiled???) I once brought home an entire basket of these, alive, through the plane!

You name it, and you’d probably get the seafood of your choice. Unless of course it is of the “illegally for sale” kind. That’s another story.

Capiz - Seafood Capital - By the beach
Enjoy the sea breeze while indulging in seafood

Located in Western Visayas at the northeastern section of Panay Island (where you can also find Ilolo and Aklan), Capiz faces the Sibuyan Sea in the north and has numerous fish ponds in the locality.

Capiz - Seafood Capital - Sugpo
Sugpo (big shrimps) (ginisa? buttered?)

A lot of seafood being enjoyed in Manila comes from Capiz, with the extra hundreds of pesos added per kilograms of course. Here are some of the great seafood dishes I’ve tasted in Capiz. I hope you enjoy the visual chow time! (Disclaimer: I like eating but I am not that good in describing. I’ll try my best but please use your imagination or previous foodie experiences!)

Coco Grove

This is perhaps the most famous and the “fanciest but still looks like casual dining” seafood restaurant in the Capiz bay seafood restaurant area. It’s a bit more pricey than the “dampa” choices down the coast. I can’t tell you how much exactly coz I didn’t really pay for the food. Another perk of field work travel! Anyway, Coco Grove is also the place where celebrities and personalities visiting Capiz usually go to for their quick seafood fix. Photos below are what they offer (or at least what we tried).

Capiz - Seafood Capital - Sinigang na Isda
Sinigang na Isda (Fish in Sour Soup) with radish and some greens (I’m sorry, my fish taxonomy is limited)
Capiz - Seafood Capital - Inihaw na Pusit
Inihaw na Pusit (Grilled stuffed squid) with tomato, onion and ginger fillings
Capiz - Seafood Capital - Inihaw na Isda
Inihaw na Isda (Grilled Fish), I think it’s blue marlin or tanigue
Capiz - Seafood Capital - Calamari
Calamari (deep fried squid rings)
Capiz - Seafood Capital - Seaweed
Lato (Grape Seaweed) in tomato, onion and vinegar

There were probably other dishes we enjoyed that I forgot to take photos of coz I was already hungry. I think we also had nylon clam soup which is quite tasty! And perhaps some scallops too. Plus, you can order beer or coconut, which you’d drink from the shell itself!

Aling Bebing’s Seafood Plaza (Dampa style)

Since we were doing a series of farmers’ training at that time, we also had the chance to go for another round of seafood dinner by the Capiz bay area. This time, we went for the Dampa style at Bebing’s seafood plaza.

Capiz - Seafood Capital - Dampa Style Choosing
Choosing and haggling for seafoods. More fun in the Philippines!

If you are unfamiliar with Dampa style of eating, it’s where you choose the seafood that you want to be cooked, haggle for the price, and tell the kitchen how you want them to cook it. It’s quite fun. I didn’t do the haggling per se but it’s fun to watch, and request for the food you want!

Capiz - Seafood Capital - Inihaw na Daing na Pusit
My choice for the night, inihaw na daing na pusit (Grilled Dried Squid)
Capiz - Seafood Capital - Nylon Clams
I think these are nylon clams. They make for really good soup!
Capiz - Seafood Capital - Sinigang na Isda 2
Sinigang na Isda (Fish in Sour Soup), I think this one is lapu-lapu?
Capiz - Seafood Capital - Windowpane Oyster
Grilled Scallops with Butter (this one is REALLY good)
Capiz - Seafood Capital - Oyster
Aphrodisiacs, I mean, oysters, anyone?!
Capiz - Seafood Capital - Inihaw na Daing na Pusit 2
Time to savor the inihaw na daing na pusit. Best with spiced vinegar and a bit of soy sauce

Eating at Aling Bebing’s seafood plaza is more casual than at Coco Grove. Both places have a great view of the beach/shore and you can feel the wind gushing. Aling Bebing’s Plaza’s style of bamboo flooring a little above the sands and closer to the shore was more breezy though. Making the seafood dinner more authentic and enjoyable.

Capiz - Seafood Capital - Happy Diners
Happy diners, I mean, farmer trainers!

So, what are you waiting for?! Book your flights to Roxas, Capiz or fly to Iloilo and Aklan and take a road trip from there. Or, if you really have a lot of time but not much budget, maybe try the 2GO ship option (I should try this too) or take the Roll-on, Roll-off (RORO) buses. I know it seems like great effort but hey, if you really want the freshest and finest seafood, there’s no other place to be than Capiz, the Philippines’ seafood capital!