I first heard of Varanasi from a co-volunteer during my first week in India. He said that it is a must for him to visit Varanasi, the Hindus’ holy city. Varanasi is said to be the place where Hindus’ would like to die in, if they get the chance. I was told that it is believed that dying in Varanasi or having their remains sunk below or their ashes scattered across the Ganges River will either stop their reincarnation (maybe especially when they expect to rep bad karma in their next life) and/or go straight to heaven. Another reason for Hindu pilgrimage in Varanasi is the belief that you can be cleansed of your sins and cured of your illness once you drink from or bathe at the Ganges River.
I spent the third day of the new year being awed and mesmerized (not to mention frozen) by the Golden Temple in Amritsar. While Amritsar is not the state capital, hundreds of thousands, possibly hundreds of millions, visit this city at India’s northwestern frontier as it is home to the Harmandir Sahib aka Golden Temple. The Harmandir Sahib is considered “heaven” among the Sikhs, followers of Sikhism. (most of us [especially Pinoy] know them as the people with the turban)
A devout Sikh dips into the sarovar (holy pool) even when it’s about 5 degrees cold
I first came to know of the Golden Temple via an article written by Mamu Rose, a Filipina co-volunteer, who toured the Sikh’s Holy City together with other VSO volunteers. Upon gazing at the picture, I told myself that I, too, shall see the Golden Temple for myself.
The Golden Temple is located in the middle of the holy pool
It took months before I was finally able to go but I was so glad that I did. Being at Harimandir Sahib, even though I was not a Sikh or a follower of Sikhism (though I like their teachings, the ones I heard of at least), gave me a certain feeling of calm and peace. The Golden Temple, unlike any other places I visited, I felt these even while I was just about to enter the complex premises.
One of the entrances, by the Langer (free kitchen). Covered heads and washed feet are required before entry
I don’t know but for some reason, I felt like I am really being welcomed. That I am being, uhm, ushered in. Alright, alright. You can say I am being dramatic. But that was really what I felt at the time. And mind you, I haven’t actually gone in the Golden Temple itself yet.
A bridge connects the pilgrims and visitors from the walkway area to the Harimandir Sahib
It probably was because of the long line of devotees and “curious” tourists waiting to get their chance to enter the Sikh “heaven” (although I think the entire complex kinda feels like that already) but also, more importantly, because I wanted to understand the essence of the Harimandir Sahib better.
Can you see the line just to enter the Golden Temple?
And that moment came later that night when my CouchSurfing kind-of host Sokirt met me at the Harmandir Sahib after the trip to the Wagah (Indo-Pakistan) border. Sokirt is a Sikh, and, I should say, probably as devout as my grand aunt were in the congregation.
The Golden Temple and the lights are reflected by the sarovar during the day and night
How did I say so? Well, when we entered the Golden Temple complex, the first words out of Sokirt’s mouth, was “This is heaven.” And, though I may not share the same views as strongly as he does when it comes to religion, I gotta say, I was sold. I mean, you could hear it in his voice. There was so much faith and belief.
Pilgrims and visitors are highly encouraged to revel at the Golden Temple’s majesty during the day and the night
I haven’t met anyone like Sokirt who had that much reverence and awe for his place of worship. Or for the idea of having “heaven on earth”. Not even my late grand aunt. I probably would not convert to Sikhism but really, meeting a Sikh in their holy site and seeing and feeling how much they believe in the teachings of Sikhism, man, that is something that gets through you.
The Harimandir Sahib glows and radiates throughout the night
When asked about my favorite places or moments in India, the Golden Temple in Amritsar is definitely always mentioned. Not just because of the beauty of the Harimandir Sahib itself (which was built thrice already after being destroyed due to religious and political conflicts) but of what the temple and the surrounding structures represent. Of course, it might be different for you and me. But if you have the chance, I hope you’d get to visit the Golden Temple and see and feel for yourself how the Sikh’s “heaven” can be a refuge for you as well.
Sokirt said I was a brave girl for coming to Amritsar during winter. Well, at 5 degrees, I guess my 8-layered get-up can cope. 🙂
For general travel information on how to get to Amritsar and visit the Harimandir Sahib, please refer to Wikitravel. If you want to learn more about my experience at the Golden Temple and the other places in Amritsar (Langer [free kitchen], Wagah Border, Jalianwallah Bagh), please be patient for the rest of the entries or leave me a comment.
In my CouchSurfing profile, I shared that one of the most amazing things I have seen in my entire life is the sunrise at Mt. Kanchenjunga in the Himalayas. Mt. Kangchenjunga is the 3rd highest mountain in the world at 8,586m (28,169ft).
Mt. Kanchenjunga. Amazing.
No, I did not climb Mt. Kanchenjunga but I watched the sunrise from the Tiger Hill in Darjeeling, a popular tea estates tourist spot, in West Bengal, northeast India. Darjeeling has an average elevation of 2,050m (6,710ft). Tiger Hill in Ghoom, where you can find the world’s highest railway station, is about 11kms from Darjeeling.
Welcome to Darjeeling!
In order to see the sunrise at Kanchenjunga, Julie (my VSO co-vol, friend and travel buddy in India) and I had to wake up at bloody 3:30AM at an “I-don’t-know-how-cold-nut-I’m-freezing” temperature! Being in India for a while by then (October, 7 months in!), we didn’t really expect them to be serious about the pre-arranged shared jeepney to Tiger Hill, the viewing point, to go by 4:00AM! But yes, they did and even called us up before 4 to make sure we were on our way.
With the number of shared jeeps, vans, cars and other vehicles heading that way—there’s like about 200 vehicles at the parking lot and that’s a conservative count—the traffic was really bad especially when it was already nearing Tiger Hill.
Vehicle options for the Tiger Hill (aka Three-Point Tour) tour. We got a jeep like the green one for 10 people
Upon alighting, we were told to just go to the ticket booth to pay for the Rs 10 entry fee to the hill’s “viewing deck” area. Since we thought we could rough it out anyway, Juls and I decided not to go for the extra Rs 20- and Rs 30-rupee tickets for the viewing deck that’s inside a taller building.
Tiger Hill Viewing Deck and “Viewing Deck” – take your pick!
We joined the multitude of jacket- and sweater-clad (sometimes with bonnets too coz it’s too freaking cold!) of local and foreign tourists first on the right side of the building for an earlier view of the sunrise, you know, ala-Breaking Dawn!
Breaking Dawn with strangers. And electronic devices!
I thought that was it! That we were unlucky to see Mt. Kanchenjunga because it’s too cloudy! But I was wrong! Because, the sun’s rays are to hit Kanchenjunga in the opposite side of the viewing deck. Juls was the one who saw it just when we were about to walk down!
Up in the clouds! Cotton Candy, anyone?!
Forgive the photo quality here (click to enlarge; I can give you original resolution ones if you’d request) but I assure you, the white snow-capped mountain peaks of Kanchenjunga turning into varied hues of orange is indeed a sight to behold.
It was an amazing moment for me. Like, really amazing. It’s not everyday that we get the chance to witness a natural beauty, some say a testament of God’s gift to humanity, and be blessed with the feeling of a better day unfolding before our eyes, sharing it with strangers from all walks of life. Sunrise at Mt. Kanchenjunga is amazing, isn’t it?
Panoramic view of sunrise at Mt. Kanchenjunga
After the sunrise,I think Juls and I descended from the main viewing deck and found our way to the shared jeepney. Yes, the day has just begun as the Rs 150 tour is good for three points of interest in Darjeeling (Tiger Hill, Ghoom Monastery, and Batasia 360 degree loop), stories of which I will tell in my next posts.
How can you not be amazed?
For now, I leave you with memories of my time with Mt. Kanchenjunga and experiencing cloud 9, perhaps figuratively and literally! Happy wandering!
Banderitas / Flaglets with Buddhist prayers/text line up the road at Tiger Hill
The most iconic monument of Hyderabad in Andra Pradesh (south India), Charminar is said to have been built between 1589 to 1592 BC (dates are not still debatable). It was supposed to be a monument to commemorate the founding of a new capital and the end of a plague. Charminar was commissioned by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the 5th ruler of the Golconda Sultanate. Learn more about Chaminar at Wikipedia.
Exploring Hyderabad: Charminar and Mecca Masjid
Beside Charminar is the Mecca Masjid (Makkah Masjid), one of the oldest mosques in India. It is called Mecca Masjid as Qutb Shah ordered the soil from Mecca to be made into bricks that were used in building the Masjid. Learn more about Mecca Masjid at Wikipedia.
View from the top: Nizamia Tibbi College and Hospital and Makkah Masjid along Charminar Road
Reminder: Women going inside the Charminar are not permitted alone, for some reasons I did not understand, nor explained. My CouchSurfing host Bhavesh for my Hyderabad/Secunderabad trip also was not able to explain. However, a dark secret was shared while we were on top: it’s a suicidal area, much like the famous bridges where people jump! Scary! This is also why visitors were limited to only the “first landing” area of the Charminar, which by the way is about six-floors high! So get ready! (I wasn’t as I was still carrying my weekender pack with additional sarees I just bought!)
Charminar: View from the top
The view from the top of Charminar lets you see the other major landmarks of Hyderabad like the High Court and Patel Market (garments and pearls) on one side, Laad Bazaar (bangles market) on another, then the Makkah Masjid area, and a former palace turned into a college and hospital. Hyderabad, actually, is called the City of Palaces, among its other monikers!
It was in August 2012, while planning my first long holiday in India, that I got connected with Mamtha, a CouchSurfer from Bangalore in Karnataka, India.
My CS Host, Mamtha, and THE blue backpack bag I use for travel, hanging out at Krispy Kreme Doughnuts at Brigade Road
I was supposed to meet up with her as part of my Mumbai-Goa-Bangalore-Chennai-Pondicherry trip. Working for the CSR Department of a multi-national company, I think she became interested in meeting with me as I was then volunteering in India. Sharing a common interest with a CS member beyond traveling, I was all psyched up to meet Mamtha in Bangalore!
Unfortunately though, I got really sick just two days before I was supposed to begin my trip. So, I had to cancel the first leg (Mumbai-Goa-Bangalore) and head straight to Chennai and Pondicherry a few days after my “OMG-I –thought-it-was-malaria-or-dengue” scare. Of course, I missed the chance to meet Sharma but I promised her that if I do get another opportunity to visit Bangalore, I will definitely meet her. In Indian terms, Pakka!
So, as part of my South India on a Run (aka final vacay in India), I proceeded to Bangalore after visiting the monuments at Hampi, Karnataka where I also couchsurfed. Mamtha said that she and her husband, Tyag, will pick me up from the Bangalore City Junction train station. Now, not all couchsurfing hosts pick up their surfers. So, that’s a really good indication that your host is very much willing to go out of their way to welcome you! Especially when your train is supposed to arrive at 6 o’clock in the morning!!!
Upon arrival at the train station, I saw Mamtha and Tyag even though I don’t know how she looks coz her profile has no photo yet! I guess, you know, you just feel it. But before we could leave the station, I had to ask their help. I was in Sleeper Class Coach #3 when this guy, a devotee I met in Hampi’s Virupaksha Temple came up to me and said that there was a foreign “white” woman in his Coach (Sleeper #8) who looked really distressed and kept crying all night. He offered to help her but she wouldn’t talk to him. So, he wanted me to check on her after we get off the train. So, I had to ask Mamtha and Tyag. Of course, they said yes we should go to her and see if she’s alright.
With Anna at the Sharma’s garden
Turns out, Anna is also a CouchSurfer from Netherlands and also just came from Hampi. She was kind of distressed because she was in a section where mostly are men and they just kept staring at her. It is quite common in India (I experienced it too) for men to stare (like, really stare) especially if you are “white”. It does not necessarily mean that they are staring at you like imagining pervert things. It might just be because they are curious and you might be the first foreigner they met (sleeper class coach usually is for lower-middle-class/upper-poor-class) in their entire life. Even so, it can be quite uncomfortable. Anyway, cut the story short, as Anna, like me, is only in Bangalore for a day and heading towards Kerala (further south) in the late afternoon and evening, Mamtha and Tyag also invited her over to join us for the day! YEY!!!
Where the Sharmas live
Mamtha and Tyag live in a flat (condo) community in Bangalore (I think they are southside???). They live with Shantu, Mamtha’s 80-year-old mom, and both their daughters are in different states working and studying. Before we met, Mamtha described their home as a “simple middle class Indian home”. Well, after arriving at their home, I thought, she was being modest. I mean, I love their home! Nice furniture (esp the African spine-fitting-chairs!), spacious hall, green garden (with Ganapathi’s statue nonetheless!), and with paintings and sculptures too! It is indeed simple. But it’s really classy!
Saagu!
After freshening up, the first order of business was of course, yummy home-cooked Karnataka food by Shantu! We had poori (fried flour flat bread) saagu (aromatic spices blended with coconut and choice of veggies—I think we had potato, carrots and green peas). The Sharmas are vegetarians so of course, we enjoyed pure-veg goodness. A great way to start the morning with coffee and chai (Indian tea+milk+sugar)!
Top shot of Gavi Gangadhareshwara Temple (Gavipuram Cave Temple) with the “mysterious” monolithic discs which, Sharma says, supposedly tells the time
After getting our fill (actually more than because they wouldn’t let Anna and me off the hook until we ate twice our capacity!), we headed to the Gavi Ganghadeshwara Temple in Hanumanth Nagar. An example of Indian monolithic rock-cut architecture (like the Kailash Temple in Aurangabad), the Gavi Ganghadeshwara Temple is also called the Gavipuram Cave Temple. Apparently, the temple was built around the 9th Century (according to Wikipedia) and was constructed from a cave. Mamtha shared that she’s bringing us to THIS temple because it’s got more character than the new ones.
Lighting diwas as preparation for the Puja at Nandi’s statue (Anna and I were like Paparazzis!)
The Gavipuram Cave Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, one of the three main gods of Hinduism. His bull, Nandi, is found in front of the temple entrance, as part of the area where devotees light diwas (oil candles) as part of the offering for the aarti/puja (prayer ceremony) that we became a part of (I’ve been to some pujas but it’s my first time to have it inside a temple, I think for Anna too!). Another interesting feature of the Gavi Gangadeshwara Temple is that the Shivalinga, the main diety, is located at a position where, at certain times of the year, the sun’s rays will pass through the horns of Nandi and light up the shrine! Too bad we missed it!
Some of the Statues in Front of the temple include (left-right) Shiva, Parvati (wife/consort) and Pratik (son); Ganapathi/Ganesha (their elephant-headed son and my favorite Hindu god); and Shiva in Kailash Mountain (or forest) with the sages (???)
We also missed most of the idols of deities and sages inside the cave, built long, long time ago, even before the records could show, since there’s restoration/construction going on. Mamtha did share that a Shiva statue was wearing a string that is the style of a Brahmin (priests) caste. Now, it is quite unique because Shiva belongs to the Kshatriya (warriors) caste! (Looks like it’s a privileged info as I didn’t find it mentioned in most of the literature for the temple! I so love good ol’ local knowledge!) What I didn’t miss though, was the feeling that Mamtha described whenever she goes to this temple. I felt calm and at peace. It’s not like the other new/metro temples I’ve seen that was always buzzing. Apart from the temple prayer/music, I think I didn’t hear other sounds—even the city’s noise was kind of tuned out!
Inside Ambara’s main display hallway. The peacock is so massive!!!
After spending time just chatting and “feeling” the temple (which reminded me of Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia), we then proceeded to our next destination—Ambara, an antique, arts and crafts boutique! If I wasn’t surfing with Mamtha, I wouldn’t have known about the place. Or, I probably would know but I wouldn’t go. The reason being that Ambara is quite upscale. I mean, with the quality of their products, I think they really are targeting upscale customers.
Furniture, antiques, sarees and garments are mostly the main display in this hall
Actually, before entering, Mamtha already shared that it’s an expensive place to buy stuff and our goal is not to buy—it’s to see and appreciate the culture, creativity and craftsmanship of Karnataka. And so we did. I mean, the place is impressively divine! The sarees are lovely and the garments are so rich. The leather bags are to die for! Anna had to “motivate” herself to move on from the grey tote bag she was eyeing. I think it was like 20,000 rupees (PhP 15000) or something! The furniture and sculptures definitely had a lot of character into it, and a hefty price tag too! But, then, as I said, the market is upscale. I do think the products on showcase at Ambara are worth every paisa!
Anna wanted to get a kurta and since Ambara is way out of our price range, Mamtha took us to Fab India (imagine the Indian version of Kultura Filipino with more focus on Fashion and lifestyle products). Fab India offers high quality garments with, I should say, reasonable prices. If you are lucky, some might even be on sale! After trying out some, Anna settled for a blue cotton kurta and pledged to get more once she reaches Sri Lanka!
Thali at the Ready: Attack! (left to right) Cucumber Pachadi, Cabbage Palya, Rasam/Saru, Rice, Saagu, Papadom
And of course, after all this sightseeing and shopping, our tummies have started complaining and we headed back to the Sharma’s home for another round of traditional South Indian lunch thali! And we ate with our hand, or at least tried to! It’s the best way to enjoy South Indian food! On the menu were Rasam or Saru (in Kannada), a sour (tamarind) soupy dish (lots of radish), cabbage palya (stir fried cabbage with shredded coconut), cucumber pachadi (grated cucumber in yoghurt), and my favorite, papadom (crispy fried/flame grilled pringles-like snack/side dish)! The saagu made a welcomed comeback too! Of course, again, Shantu’s cooking was awesome! I don’t need to state how many servings I had, right?!
Anna and I with the Sharmas: Tyag, Mamtha and Shantu (I’m sitting at the African ‘spine chair’!)
After lunch, it was time to again pack our bags and leave the Sharma’s home. Well, not without a ‘CS-extended-family’ pic of course! Thank God for the timer! So (*sniff sniff*) we had to bade goodbye to Shantu (I asked for her blessing (mano po!) the traditional Filipino way) and the Sharmas’ home! Tyag would have wanted to tour us around their community but we were running out of time. Anna has an earlier train than me so we parted ways at Brigade Road, the central location where Bangaloreans and tourists alike meet.
People Watching at Brigade Road, Bangalore
I would say that Bangalore is more, uhm, Western when it comes to dressing up, more western than Mumbai or Delhi. Probably because of the influence of the MNCs (especially IT companies as Bangalore is tagged the Silicon Valley of India) and the influx of foreign students and travelers in the area.
The queue at KKD. Reminds me of the time when there was very few Krispy Kreme stores in Metro Manila before
Our time in Brigade Road was made more enjoyable when I saw the familiar Green, White and Red logo of Krispy Kreme Doughnuts!!! Yes, I went so gaga that Mamtha must have thought me crazy!!! The Krispy Kreme Doughnut store in Bangalore is the first and only in India. So yes, I went gaga! Although the line was quite long, Mamtha and I braved the queue to get a taste of the famous original doughnuts. And yes, she loved it too! She bought some home coz she knows Tyag and Shantu should definitely try it out too!!!
After our sweet sojourn, it was time for me to bid farewell to Mamtha. I wanted to visit the Bangalore’s famous Lal Bagh Botanical Garden before heading to the train station and Mamtha also had to be somewhere else. Though the time spent with Mamtha and her family was just a few hours, their genuine hospitality towards me and Anna was really something I count as highlights of this trip. (And to think I almost did not push through my South India vacay!)
I wrote this post not only as a way of sharing the CouchSurfing experience but also as a way of expressing deep gratitude to the Sharmas for sharing a day in their life and welcoming us to their lovely home.
Life is short so take a leap of faith. Let’s wander, explore and discover. Come and journey with me.
for the rest of the entries or leave me a comment.
But before we could leave the station, I had to ask their help. I was in Sleeper Class Coach #3 when this guy, a devotee I met in 
The Diarist Wanders 